The ends of the hammer spring should rest atop the trigger pin, in the notches on either side of the trigger's round shoulders. Orient the hammer as shown above and drop it into the fire control cavity. Ensure the ends of the trigger spring rest on the floor of the cavity, and that both trigger spring loops are still seated on the round shoulders of the trigger itself. Wipe away excess oil, then double-check the trigger inside the fire control cavity. Do not try to force the pin through.Ĭontinue tapping the trigger pin until it's flush with both sides of the receiver. NOTE: If you meet resistance, flip the receiver over and check the opposite pin hole to verify the holes in the disconnector, trigger, and receiver are all aligned while pushing the pin in. Use the gunsmithing hammer to gently tap the trigger pin in place. The pin should be inserted from the left side of the receiver with the grooves in the pin going in first. Lubricate the trigger pin hole, and insert the trigger pin while maintaining pressure on the assembly. With gentle pressure applied to the trigger and disconnector, the holes in both units and the pin hole in the receiver should align. The notch in the disconnector should rest directly atop the disconnector spring in the trigger.ĭrop the trigger and disconnector into the lower receiver. Orient the trigger as shown and place the disconnector atop the trigger so the holes in both units line up. It doesn't matter which pin you grab they are the same. Parts: Receiver, Trigger, Disconnector, Trigger Pin.įirst, grab the disconnector and one of the two trigger/hammer pins.Ensure the metal wire connecting both loops rests behind the hammer hook, shown above.
Rear takedown pin not fitting install#
In the same fashion as the trigger, install the hammer spring onto the hammer. You can use the 3/32" punch to gently push the spring down until it is fully seated. Ensure the bottom of the spring is fully seated. It's a tight fit, so applying some lubricant is helpful. Insert the fat end of the spring into the recessed hole atop the trigger as shown. The spring is easily identified because it's the only spring that is fatter on one end.
Orient the trigger vertically, and collect the disconnector spring from the kit. Ensure the metal wire connecting both loops rests underneath the sear (the front, flat part of the trigger) as shown. Slide one loop of the spring over the trigger pin hole housing, then repeat on the opposite side. Mechanically, this is no different than any other mil-spec kit install for an AR pistol or rifle chambered in 5.56/.223 (or 300 Blackout).ġ. We're installing a pistol brace instead of a buttstock, but we're still using a standard carbine buffer tube and castle nut. A mil-spec LPK includes a single-stage trigger and factory springs, pins, detents, and parts. This is considered a "mil-spec" parts kit, it runs very smoothly, and it's affordable. Required to install the pistol grip's screw and washer.īefore starting the assembly, verify you have all the required parts.įor our install, we're using the Anderson Stainless AR-15 LPK. Essential for making pins slide in easily, lubricant will also help protect your anodized finish. Useful for keeping the spring-loaded detent compressed when installing the front takedown pin. This is of particular concern when installing the bolt catch roll pin. Useful for covering up your receiver's finish to prevent damage while hammering and using the punches. Useful for handling the tiny detents and springs that retain the takedown and pivot pins. To be used with your punches, the hammer will also help with installing the pins for the hammer and trigger, which make for a tight fit. The last two are optional but helpful, while the first is essential: You'll need the 3/32" punch to install the roll pins for the bolt catch and trigger guard.
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